Disability and Fashion

 

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In life if someone's perception of you is unfavourable then you can learn to shrug it off. Tell yourself that they don't know the real you. But what about when a whole industry and its related medias and companies has the wrong perception? Today I'm going to let you in on something that I'm involved with and am really proud to be a part of. Firstly though, to set you up for this post I want you all to watch this video. Note the looks of horror and disgust. It's incredibly sad. But in some ways this reaction is understandable because people do not associate beauty and fashion with disability. Why? Disability can be thought of as ugly, imperfect, with close links to accidents and illness. Almost the opposite to the beauty and perfection that the media and catwalks want to sell us. Disabled people seem so far from the medias bench mark because  you can make over and transform people  in all Miss Congeniality glory to try and 'make them fit in' but the fact  is they'll still be in a wheelchair, missing a limb, have a curved spine, blind, deaf, ill and many other forms of disability. And because of these implications it simply isn't shown. It's hidden like some shameful secret. But as you saw in the video and will see in the photos I have included in this post, (the above photos are of my gorgeous friend Hayley, taken with permission from her blog) disability can be beautiful and attractive. Disabled people can be fashionable. And we shouldn't have to 'fit in' to an unrealistic perception of beauty. We have beauty in abundance the world just needs to be open to beauty in all its forms, prosthetics and all. In a recent tweet author Ken Jennings wrote "nothing sadder than a hot person in a wheelchair." As you can imagine this enraged many people. You can read more how on the following blog. And goes to show that we have a long way to go in getting disabled people represented in fashion in the media and the catwalks. Below is a photo of Britain's Missing Top Model (the show mentioned in the video), Kelly Knox. For more videos on Britain's Missing Top Model, click here. 

 

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As a disabled person most of your expected role models are Paralympians for example. They are incredible athletes. However as a person disabled by illness the fact is I'm not going to be following in their footsteps. I can't. And neither can a lot of other people in wheelchairs. But what I can do is be fashionable. I realise that might sound contrite in comparison but there is more meaning behind it and to me too. As I can also be an advocate for the use of disabled models. I'm a woman that likes to buy clothes. Just because I'm disabled doesn't mean that I no longer do. Okay, I might not get to wear clothes that aren't pyjamas that often. In fact fashion has come to mean more to me as a sick/ disabled person than it did as a healthy person. Dressing up makes me feel happier. And we all need that. And this is why I got involved with Models of Diversity

 

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Models of Diversity are questioning the beauty and fashion industries perceptions. You can read more about them in my blog post. They are actively campaigning to make the fashion industries a more diverse place and that includes presenting disability and proving that disability is beautiful/ fashionable/ attractive/ sexy. That it does deserve a place in advertising and on the catwalk. The following video explains Models of Diversity's perspective on disability within the fashion industry. Models of Diversity on Disability. We live in a society that knows it's wrong to dismiss or discredit disabled people. Even more so since the Paralympics. There has been debates over the use of words such as invalid, saying that we cannot tar disabled people with a name that says they have no place in society. Not that the word disabled is much better. So why then is it still happening? 

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Above are photos of some of Models of Diversity's disabled models who are helping bring about change. The first image in this section is of Chelsey Jay, Models of Diversity's Director for models with a disability. When she became ill very suddenly with POTS, she found herself confined to a wheelchair. As a young woman keen to make a career as a model once she became disabled she found herself pushed out of the fashion world. As though the industry perceive that once she became disabled so too did her interests in fashion and beauty. And it's the same for so many of us and particularly hard on young people who are still finding their way. People assume that disabled people do not share the same interests as healthy people. Some people might be surprised if we look fashionable. I've heard a story about someone in a wheelchair looking at some shoes in a shop and someone standing in front of them; when asked to move out of the way they said "it's not as if you're actually going to buy them. What's the point when you are clearly paralysed?" Well news flash we're not all paralysed. And like that would affect our wanting a nice pair of shoes. Or just wanting to look nice in general. As though we're not entitled to. It's attitudes like this that stem from lack of representation. People just do not associate disability with fashion.

 For this reason, each disabled model is also an advocate and campaigner. Forging the way for others to aspire to be models despite their disability. And hopefully changing the industry in a way that it won't be a fight to be represented in future. That young disabled people that want to be a model can grow up knowing that they can be. That they do not have to feel ugly or ashamed. The four Models of Diversity models above are not only divine in their beauty but are  also wonderfully inspiring people that are sharing their stories. 

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Of course the biggest influence on the fashion world stems from the catwalks of New York, London, Milan and Paris. This is where the world takes note. In another promotion for the tv show Britain's missing Top Model one of the models says "New York would rather burn their city down than have a disabled person on the catwalk." Well I guess New York is pretty hot as it happened! At New York Fashion Week AW2014 designer Carrie Hammer, used Danielle Sheypuk (above) Ms Wheelchair New York 2012. You can read more by clicking on the link below the photo. At the recent London Fashion Week the creative director, of Topshop spoke about how they wanted to make their shows more accessible. They made their show interactive with the use of instagram and live feeds at their store at the shows venue. For all the people that could interact with the show such a small percentage would have been represented on the catwalk. And for a high street store I feel they need to be doing more to represent the wealth of diversity that shop at their stores.

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Alongside Chelsey Jay there are group of 20+ disabled people, of varying disabilities and walks of life that have all teamed together to form a pressure group. Each week we contact a brand en masse to encourage them to use disabled people in their advertising. That in their lack of representation they are isolating a large proportion of their customers. We want to know why this is? And hope to influence their future choices in who they employ to model their clothes. 

 

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We even have the support of the Minister for Disabled People, Kate Green who will be alongside Chelsey in future meetings with the brands. She recently suggested we raise the issue with our local MP's and get them to address the issue in Parliament during London Fashion Week. We received some great responses saying that they would happily put it forward. Responses from brands so far have varied. Some have been keen to respond whilst others have ignored the emails of 20+ people and subsequent follow up emails. With brands that we have contacted so far we hope to hold meetings with them to discuss the issue further. As well as emailing more brands. Like the poster says above we don't want special treatment just the same treatment. 

I hope after reading this blog post you too believe there is much more to disabled people and that disability should not affect their place in the fashion and beauty industries. I'm really proud to be a part of the pressure group and for raising the profile of disability in fashion. We're a pretty determined group who are keen to make a real change. 

Sian x

Models of Diversity



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In the wake of London Fashion Week what better time to talk fashion. In my post on body image, which you can read here. I mentioned an organization called Models of diversity. As their name suggests, Models of Diversity, are campaigning for the use of more diverse models in the fashion and advertising industries. Calling for more equality on our catwalks and in magazines. They are saying that the fashion industry needs to be more representative of a larger cross section of society. And there are so many cultures, ethnicities and lifestyles that are not represented fairly, even today in an age where we are educated about racism and political correctness.

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I don't often read magazines now, but when I do it strikes me that more diverse models seem to be used as a 'token gesture' almost, and I do hate using that phrase. But it does almost appear like 'oh we've added a black model in to the mix to avoid any claims we're not an equal opportunities employer.' It's something I think a lot of brands are doing. And let's face it it's a pretty lazy way to tackle diversity. Because yes, diversity is about colour but it's about much much more than that. In an interview click to view male model Rob Evans says that it's only ever the same faces too and that he can visit various casting agencies and only see 2 black models on their books. He admits that because of his colour he was held back from many castings. He explains that in Brazil they have a policy of 50/50 casting. However the issue in his own words is that Brazil is not known as a fashion capital. More diversity needs to be shown on the catwalks of New York, Milan, Paris and London in order to make a real change. These are the shows that have the most influence. In a recent vlog Youtuber Tanya Burr said that she loved London Fashion Week because you could look around and everyone was so different. After all London itself is a melting pot of diversity. But is that being reflected on the catwalk, really?

The founder of Models of Diversity, Angel Sinclair (seen above) asks 'Where are the models of colour? The bigger models? The shorter models? The models with a disability? The older models?' and has established the organization to help make the fashion, beauty and marketing worlds more diverse places. A place where more consumers can identify themselves. With the ultimate aim 'to change the face of fashion and modelling.'

Angel, herself was inspired to start Models of Diversity after appearing on Gok Wan's Miss Naked Beauty and being surrounded by beauty in many, many forms. She noticed a clear contrast in what we perceive to be beautiful and what the magazines and fashion industries tell us is beautiful. And so Models of Diversity was born. They strongly believe in getting the publics opinion and asking them what they want to see on the catwalks and magazines and transferring that information into the fashion industries.

But where does the blame lie? With the designers? With the model agencies? Or casting directors? The following video is a CNN intervew with Iman, discussing the issue and how she thinks there needs to be a radical change in the Fashion industry. I think each of them has a responsibility to make the changes. However if the model agencies do not have more diverse models on their books, like Rob Evans pointed out, then the casting directors and designers don't have the choice available to them. Likewise if a model agency does not send their models to castings.

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Whilst Models of Diversity recognise the need for more diveristy in fashion and modelling, they also understand that modelling on a professional scale is not for everyone. It takes a certain skill set and creativity. It is the same with an profession. But what Models of Diversity are saying is that if you have that potential then being more culturally diverse should not impact whether you get the job. And Models of Diversity are there to support aspiring models on their journey with training and test shoots. As well as promoting these models in the hope that agencies, casting directors, marketing executives and designers will take notice. As well as telling these models that they can be beautiful/ sexy/ glamorous. Building their confidence; which in itself is important, when they are used to thinking they are different and not seeing themselves represented in magazines and other advertising. In an interview on Sky News (which you can view here), model and director for disabled models at Models of Diversity, Chelsey Jay, explained that it's hard and isolating to be young but to not see yourself represented.

With the fashion industries, media and magazines being so powerful in their influence on so many people, especially young people seeing more diversity and widening the perception on beauty and attractiveness then perhaps more tolerance and understanding will stem from that. As well as inspiring more confidence in lots of men and women that feel they are not beautiful because they do not look like the models in the magazines. Now wouldn't that be nice?

To find out more about Models of Diversity visit their website, view plenty more videos of their events, campaigns and catwalks on Angel's youtube channel. Stay tuned for another Models of Diversity post on here soon.

Sian x